Oh my goodness- so much has transpired since I last wrote! I'm sorry it's been so long. I'm going to wrap up India and then I will write another post detailing our amazing trek.
Let's see.. Dan and I's last two weeks in India were probably the most memorable, as we visited the two "must sees" of the country. First, THE Taj Mahal. It was a long train ride in and another one out that night but it was worth every minute. It was every bit as beautiful, magnificent and awe inspiring as people had told us it would be. We spent nearly 5 hrs on the grounds, watching differing cloud backdrops change the translucent marble from blues to golds to white.
From afar it almost looks fake, but as you draw closer you see all the minute details that make it what it is. Floral inlays of jasper, carnelian and other semi-precious stones create gorgeous mosaics and sacred words.
Every part was beyond words beautiful- we spent the whole day taking her in. And, we felt so inspired by its grandiosity we decided to hit the 5-star hotel for dinner! Let me tell you- the shiny white bathrooms and fresh hand towels were worth the money alone! A memorable and decadent meal was had, only to be followed by a trip back to the chaos of the train station, and a quick reality check.
In just minutes, we went from the finest, most luxurious place to a place full of impoverished people, most sleeping on the dusty, dirty ground, and covered in flies. A land of extremes- India is.
And so we sailed into Varanasi for what would be our last 7 days in India. It felt so good to stay somewhere for longer than a couple days and really get to know it. Varanasi is by far the most all encompassing city we explored. Said to be one of the oldest living cities on earth, it is full of life and death, beauty and spirituality. The River Ganges is the life source of the people. They drink from it, bathe in it, perform prayer in it, dump trash in it, and bid farewell to their deceased loved ones in it.
Dan and I's favorite activity was walking down all the ghats (holy steps down to the water) and taking in the sights. Boat men, Indian graffiti, prayer ceremonies, and the bathing of both people and animal, were just a few of the things we saw regularly. One day, we came upon Assi Ghat to see hundreds of bright saris- like a rainbow sea of glittering jewel tones- as women performed prayer and song for their sons in the incense filled air. A favorite memory.
And there were the burning ghats- where bodies are wrapped in cloth and laid upon wood to burn and bid farewell to the world. The Hindi people believe that leaving earth this way at the Ganges releases them from the cycle of reincarnation to rest peacefully forever. An indescribable and intense experience to watch, I felt intrusive coming upon these ceremonies and witnessing these goodbyes. Deeply impactful and moving to say the least. And one can feel this energy in Varanasi, like a million departed souls are drifting through the ethers and air. Strange, beautiful and intense- it was the most powerful and enthralling city that we visited in India, and one I won't ever forget.
Big Man, Little Train
So Dan and I had planned to do a tiger safari and we found out the park was closed. We bought tickets darjeeling then violence erupted there and we had to cancel. After much ado, and a month exploring India, we decided to head to Nepal a week early. We had traversed across the width of India and back again, exploring Rajasthan, the desert, the Taj and had sailed the wild waves of Varanasi! This decision felt right.
I can't say India is the easiest place to travel in, sometimes you have to dig real deep to find the diamonds in the rough. We saw the saddest of the sad, the most beautiful of beauty, and the spiritually inspiring and confusing; we felt frustrated and alive, angry and blissful, the whole shebang! But I wouldn't change the trip in any way- it just one of those totally unique places you have to see once in a lifetime- a place that can't be described, but only felt and experienced. As hard as it was at times, I feel warmly and tender toward India when I think of it, and it will always hold a special place in my travel repertoire and heart.
Dan and I landed in Kathmandu on October 2nd and immediately welcomed the calmer energy and new scenery, sounds and food. We spent a week around the general Kathmandu area preparing for our trek with long hikes and walks, and recuperating from our wild ride in India. One of our first days was spent journeying up to our first big stupa, the Monkey Temple. The stupa was beautiful, and the monkeys, of course, provided hours of entertainment.
We continued on to visit the medieval, Newari city if Bhaktapur, with ancient architecture and Nepal's tallest pagoda, it's wood carvings worn and weathered, but still so detailed and beautiful.
And of course there was Boudha, with its glorious, pristine, white stupa. Such a mellow energy here, and Dan and I loved sitting high above the stupa watching Tibetans perform ritual and prayer at the base of the structure. Some much needed serenity post India!
Oh and I cannot forget the MOMO! Our latest obsession has been trying these delicious veggie steamed dumplings all across the country! A month later and the winner is?! Yangling! The first place we ate when we arrived to Nepal! We will miss these little hot pockets of love!
MOMOS!!!!
There is so much more to tell you. Our trek just may have been the best yet, but I won't yak your ears off- (Get it? Yak, Nepal... I guess you have to be here! ;). Stay tuned for more Nepal adventures!
Love love love xoxox thinking of you all!
Sissy
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